After the monastery, we returned to "downtown" Lalibela and stopped by the Nu Eneyat Traditional Coffee Ceremony house, run by Wubit Alemnew, pictured here. Coffee is very important in Ethiopia, in fact it is believed that the Ethiopians were the first to discover coffee and its pep-giving qualities. Wonde told us that in villages, coffee ceremonies are held daily in the homes of community leaders, and that most disputes between residents are settled by the elders over coffee. You don't go to a coffee ceremony for a quick cup, it's a leisurely process during which the hostess roasts green coffee beans over a charcoal fire, grinds the roasted beans with a mortar and pestle, and boils the grounds in water. Each guest is served three espresso-sized cups of strong coffee (with sugar, if desired).
Wubit also runs a small souvenir shop at the coffee house, and we learned the next day she also is proprietess of a tiny grocery store in the center of town. If you're ever in Lalibela, stop by her coffee house near the Yemereha hotel.
When the coffee is roasted to its desired darkness, guests are invited to inhale the fragrant smoke. Mmmm.
We also met Wubit's adorable kids, 4-year-old Bethelem and 6-year-old Yohannes. Here, Bethelem serves popcorn, a traditional coffee ceremony accompaniment.
We also sampled tej (honey wine), arrack (a potent clear liquor), and injera (spongy bread) with stewed lentils. Among family and friends, usually people feed each other with their hands -- tearing off a bit of injera, using it to scoop up a bite of whatever else is on offer, and delivering it to a neighbor's mouth.
After coffee, Ellie became fast friends with the kids by offering piggyback rides. Bethelem and Yohannes will remember that tall "farenji" lady for a long time, I think.
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