Day 3: Lalibela Coffee Ceremony

After the monastery, we returned to "downtown" Lalibela and stopped by the Nu Eneyat Traditional Coffee Ceremony house, run by Wubit Alemnew, pictured here. Coffee is very important in Ethiopia, in fact it is believed that the Ethiopians were the first to discover coffee and its pep-giving qualities. Wonde told us that in villages, coffee ceremonies are held daily in the homes of community leaders, and that most disputes between residents are settled by the elders over coffee. You don't go to a coffee ceremony for a quick cup, it's a leisurely process during which the hostess roasts green coffee beans over a charcoal fire, grinds the roasted beans with a mortar and pestle, and boils the grounds in water. Each guest is served three espresso-sized cups of strong coffee (with sugar, if desired).

Wubit also runs a small souvenir shop at the coffee house, and we learned the next day she also is proprietess of a tiny grocery store in the center of town. If you're ever in Lalibela, stop by her coffee house near the Yemereha hotel.

When the coffee is roasted to its desired darkness, guests are invited to inhale the fragrant smoke. Mmmm.

We also met Wubit's adorable kids, 4-year-old Bethelem and 6-year-old Yohannes. Here, Bethelem serves popcorn, a traditional coffee ceremony accompaniment.

We also sampled tej (honey wine), arrack (a potent clear liquor), and injera (spongy bread) with stewed lentils. Among family and friends, usually people feed each other with their hands -- tearing off a bit of injera, using it to scoop up a bite of whatever else is on offer, and delivering it to a neighbor's mouth.

After coffee, Ellie became fast friends with the kids by offering piggyback rides. Bethelem and Yohannes will remember that tall "farenji" lady for a long time, I think.

Day 3: Monastery of Nakuta La'ab

Our original Lalibela itinerary called for us to visit the church of Asheton Maryam, which involves a steep trail and a mule ride. We decided against this in the end, both so we'd have time to visit the school and because we were a little nervous about riding on mules. Wonde, our guide, suggested the nearby Monastery of Nakuta La'ab instead, which was definitely worth a visit.

If I recall correctly, Nakuta La'ab was the successor to King Lalibela in the Zagwe dynasty which ruled from Lalibela (then called Roha). In the above photo you can see the setting of the monastery.

The monastery is partly open to the air. It's basically built inside a cave.

Nakuta La'ab is known for its holy water which drips from the cave ceiling. These basins were once stones that have been gradually hollowed out by centuries of drip, drip, drip. Wonde told us that this water is supposed to be effective for curing infertility.

The priest showed us some of the monastery's treasures, including crosses, crowns...

... and beautiful illustrated manuscripts. I cringe a little at the non-temperature-regulated storage conditions, but it is amazing to see these priceless books up close.

As we climbed back up to meet our driver, Ellie made friends with a little goat who scampered up the slope beside us.